Included are 2 65mm Round bases, 10 40mm Round bases and 40 32mm Round bases, along with 2 lights, 2 vent and 2 computer terminals to add to any base for extra detail. There is no rule officially. You could theoretically put a Gretchin on a Knight base and a Knight on a Gretchin base. That leaves us with just one step left: Weathering. This is another spot I don’t want to spend a ton of time, so I take an old flared out brush or a piece of sponge and just dapple Typhus Corrosion all over the surface to give it lots of grime spots and dirt. I’ll smudge a few as well. If I can I put the standard infantry units on the 32mm can I then put the HQ/Character models on 40mm bases like the Primaris HQ/Character models are? Or would they all need to be on 32mm bases? Fowler: Oddly enough, Shadow War: Armageddon is what got me to really take the plunge on the hobby. Assembly note for people who want to maximize modularity (for Necro and Kill Team especially) – I highly recommend making some clipped walkways. Sector Mechanicus. Credit: Fowler

Use a BIG brush to stipple inconsistent patches of a mid-brown over the primer spray. You want to be as messy and inconsistent as possible, with some patches of brown being fairly solid, and others being pretty much just a drybrush. Pretty much any mid brown will be fine for this, although going as dark as Citadel Rhinox Hide would probably be fine. Personally I was using the big ol’ keg of Calthan Brown that came in the old Citadel Scenery Painting set. If you’re not sure about the brown you’re using, just do a small bit of scenery to completion and see how it all sits together. Using those clips on either end of a walkway lets you suspend between it two other terrain pieces. If you really want to cover more ground, combining two long walkways is an excellent choice. Sector Mechanicus. Credit: FowlerThe Sector Mechanicus terrain first debuted in 2017 in the Shadow War: Armageddon boxed game, which came with a staggeringly generous assortment of terrain for playing with the two kill teams included in the box, Space Marine Scouts and Ork Boyz. The Sector Mechanicus terrain is fantastic for Necromunda and Kill Team, where its raised walkways and towering metal struts make for great cover and vertical battlefields. It’s also frequently used for games of Warhammer 40,000, where it’s a bit less useful thanks to not quite working with the game’s all-or-nothing visibility rules for terrain, but with the right setups can be a great addition to the battlefields of the 41st millennium. So, I know these jamokes up there think their method is easy, but…. they’re using multiple steps and dry brushes and highlights…. All I’m saying is that my method has about 10 less steps than either of theirs. One key step to prepare the Sector Mechanicus terrain for paint is applying some Vallejo Oxide Paste to areas that you want heavier rust and grime. Credit: 40khamslam Similar question regarding Necron & Dark Eldar models - they come with 25mm bases, but could you legally put them on 32mm bases?

Edge drybrush everything with a light silver. I used Citadel Necron Compound, but I think Vallejo Air Steel would also work well. Sector Mechanicus terrain: the end of the grungy metal stage. Credit: Charlie BrassleyDesigned to complement the Sector Mechanicus scenery range, this box of 52 highly detailed Citadel plastic round bases contains three different sizes, and features the same textures as the rest of the Sector Mechanicus range. There’s a host of pipework, vents, cogs and Adeptus Mechanicus symbols for your miniatures to stand atop – they’ll look at home in the murky industrial confines of the Sector Mechanicus. There are multiple planes to these since the detail is cut into the base itself to give it that three-dimensional feel. Looks like this is a good thing since they are working within the limitations of the material and making sure the detail doesn’t appear flat. Incidentally, I rebased all my previous edition models to 32mm to make them consistent with any new models I might buy and because I thought they looked better. I'm quite happy with the decision, in particular with the metal raptors I have, as it allowed me to put metal washers under their bases which has made them much less tippy. Bigger is usually more accepted than smaller, though imo bigger can give you just as much as an advantage or disadvantage as smaller in this edition so I wouldn't really count on that I applied Reaper’s Brown Liner to the gaps between the panels to add some contrast. Next, to add the streaks, I applied sporadic dots of Brown Liner at the lower edges of the horizontal panels and immediately smudged them downward using my finger. Would enamels and cotton buds and white spirit look better? Yes. Was my method insanely fast? Also yes. A word of warning: as soon as you put a dot on the surface, you need to wipe with your finger immediately. I can’t emphasise that enough. Doing two or three dots right next to each other then smudging them is fine, but don’t apply dots to the whole section and then try and smudge them; you’ll get horrible tidal stains. Sector Mechanicus terrain. Credit: Charlie Brassley

Drybrush a dark metallic over the whole thing. I used Army Painter gunmetal, but I’m sure Citadel Leadbelcher would be fine too. One thing to note here and the biggest pain about this is that I also paint in the recessed parts of the walkway. This is a big pain in the ass and a seemingly minor thing but it makes a huge difference when you look at the model on the table. Painting the sides of the recessed partsYou probably don’t need 3 clips AND a railing to support a long clipped walkway, but you also really don’t want it to fail! Use your best judgment. Painting Sector Mechanicus Doing the rusty recess shade will definitely add time to the process, but you could probably skip it if you find a primer spray that’s a perfect rusty colour. I found the Laser Cut Brown a little too reddish to be left unadulterated. Phase Two: a Pop of Colour, and a Dash of Actual Finger Painting Broadly speaking, there’s three phases to this: grungy metal, then a pop of bright colour on the flat panels, then some minimal detailing. Phase One: Basic Grungy Metal